Every repair starts with a thorough visual inspection as to the age and condition of the set. The make and model number are noted and a search for documentation is carried out. This is so that the correct parts are used and the set can be correctly disassembled and reassembled later. Then I proceed along the following lines, avoiding the temptation to “plug in and switch on” :-

• The set is removed from its cabinet and the chassis is cleaned. If you are planning on doing this yourself, you should use a dust mask. While on the subject of safety, take care when handling heavy radios and equipment.

• The wiring is inspected and any obviously burned-out parts are noted.

• Any tampering or user-modifications are noted.

• Any perished wiring is replaced with modern wiring as close as possible in appearance and type to the original.

• Burned-out parts (usually resistors) are replaced with the same type and power rating. The capacitors or other components they are connected to are checked and replaced.

• Panel lamps are checked and replaced.

• Wafer switches are cleaned

• The mains cord is replaced with a modern 3-core cord and the chassis is earthed, unless there are considerations preventing this.

• The dial-cord is replaced, if necessary.

• Now the set is slowly “brought to life” by applying a small initial AC voltage and bringing it up to full AC 230 volts (or 110 volts) using a variable AC power supply very slowly indeed. If at any time a component fails or overheats, the process is halted and the problem is resolved. All work is done on the set whilst it is isolated from the mains – after all, some sets were deliberately designed with a “live chassis”!

• Most sets have very minor faults and will now be fully or partially operative at the end of this process.

  Now the troubleshooting can begin.